Southern Simchas, Part III
A Jewish wedding ceremony is a joyous occasion, incorporating many Jewish traditions. The ceremony traditionally takes place under a “chuppah” or wedding canopy with the ceremony structured into two parts. The “breaking of the glass” by the groom at the end of the ceremony is met with cries of “mazel tov!” from the audience. Then, it is on to the celebration with a reception. Whether it is sponge cake and wine, or a five-course dinner, there is happiness all around.
It Was Bershert
As told by Joseph Berliner to Rachel Barnett
Mildred and Alexander Berliner wedding, Dec. 1944. Painting from original photograph by Joseph Berliner. Image courtesy of Joseph Berliner.
It was bershert (or “meant to be”). The courtship and eventual marriage of Mildred Berry and Alexander (Allie) Berliner is a “made for tv” story. If you believe in true love, their story is one for you.
Allie Berliner was born in Brooklyn in 1920. His uncle, Joe Kleier, was born in Brooklyn the same year. Following Allie, his sister, Gloria, was born. The family lived in Brooklyn, the father, Phillip, a furrier, and mother, Cora, a homemaker.
With World War II, Uncle Joe enlisted in the US Army and was sent to train at Fort Jackson in Columbia, South Carolina. Allie followed his Uncle Joe but enlisted in the US Navy in 1941.
Meanwhile, in Columbia, SC…Louis and Bella Berry lived on Marion Street. Louis, a tailor, and Bella, a homemaker, opened their home to Jewish GIs who were training at Fort Jackson for duty in World War II. There was always a home cooked kosher meal as Bella was an excellent cook and entertained often. They had three daughters, Ann Lee (b. 1921), Mildred (b. 1924), and Libby (b. 1932) who were vivacious and active in the community.
Allie’s uncle Joe Kleier was a Jewish GI training at Fort Jackson. He had the good fortune to have dinner at Berry’s home. He met the daughters and, as Mildred was the same age as his niece Gloria, he suggested that Mildred and Gloria become pen pals. The girls began writing to one another and became friends. Mildred accompanied her older sister, Ann Lee on a trip to New York later that year and was invited to stay at the Berliner’s home. By happenstance, Allie’s ship had docked in Norfolk. Not having seen his parents in many months, he jumped ship and traveled home to Brooklyn. There, he met Mildred. It was love at first sight. They spent several days together before he headed back to his ship. But he asked her to wait for him and she agreed.
A year and a half later, Allie’s ship docked in Charleston. Allie hopped on a bus and headed immediately to Columbia where he proposed to Mildred. They told their parents that he had a week of leave and they wanted to be married before he had to return to the ship. The wedding was arranged quickly. Allie and Mildred were married at House of Peace by Rabbi Karesh on Sunday, December 3, 1944. Mildred wore a pink dress and Ali was in his Navy blues. A simple reception followed at the family home on Marion Street. Allie had to return to his ship but once the war was over, he and Mildred settled down in Columbia and enjoyed life together for 66 years. They are buried next to one another at Beth Shalom’s Whaley Street Cemetery with the word “BERSHERT” on their headstone.
Chopped Liver
Bella Berry was a “balabusta” – or Yiddish for an excellent homemaker – and was known for her chopped liver and cinnamon raisin bread. Like many cooks of her generation, she did not write down her recipes. But, her grandson, Joseph, through trial and error, has recreated her chopped liver. This is a real “Old World” chopped liver – smooth and creamy. Although Bella likely used chicken schmaltz, Joseph prefers butter-flavored Crisco.
By Joseph Berliner
ADAPTED FROM MY BUBBE (BELLA BERRY)'S RECIPE (ONE OF THE BEST MEMORIES OF MY CHILDHOOD).
Ingredients:
3 eggs
4 medium sweet (Vidalia) onions
1 pound chicken livers
1/4 cup butter-flavored Crisco, divided (if you have authentic schmaltz, by all means use it, but the Crisco works amazingly well)
Salt and pepper to taste
Kitchen Tools:
12" cast iron skillet
Universal #2 food chopper (the kind that clamps onto the edge of the counter that is hand-cranked, using the medium grinder attachment) Note: Check thrift stores, that's where we found ours.
Directions:
Hard boil the eggs, peel them, and set them aside.
Peel and slice the onions into 1/2" rounds and set them aside.
Drain the excess liquid from the container of chicken livers, and cut them in half.
Melt 1/8 cup Crisco in the skillet over medium heat. Add half of the livers and let them sauté for 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Flip with tongs and sauté another 3 minutes.
Transfer them into a bowl (they should still be a little pink in the middle, they’ll continue cooking internally and you don't want them too dry).
Add the remaining 1/8 cup Crisco and repeat the process with the remaining livers.
Don't wipe the skillet, leave the remaining grease in the frying pan, it should be well seasoned at this point.
Add the onion slices and reduce the temperature to medium-low.
Cover the skillet and let the onions cook for 10 minutes, checking a couple of times to make sure they are not over-browning or starting to burn.
After 10 minutes, uncover the skillet. The onions should be softening but not darkening.
Continue to saute for another 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally. DO NOT RUSH THIS STEP! The onions have to caramelize slowly. After 30-40 minutes, the onions should be soft, sweet, and golden. Transfer to a bowl.
Put the individual ingredients into the food grinder, starting with the liver, then the onion and finishing with the eggs.
Stir until well-blended, adjust seasoning to taste, adding more salt and pepper if desired (I don't, but it's a personal preference).
Put in an airtight container and chill at least two hours, preferably overnight.